Complex mountain cabs from Atlas Peak | Wine Leave a comment
Atlas Peak wines in many ways mirror their landscape, with aromas of wild herb, brush and mountain garrigue that build in winding layers of complexity around a core of deep, dark fruits as they reach their peak.
Yet, too, these wines transcend its very environment, as with the elegant tannins that belie the rugged, rocky terrain. Tasting them is a true exploration of this high-peaked Napa Valley mountain appellation.
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Highlights from the 10th Taste of Atlas Peak, which was held Oct. 30 at Silverado Resort and Spa include:
• Hesperian 2016 Kitoko Vineyard Atlas Peak, which sends a delicious ribbon of silky dark fruits and herbal complexity, structured by firm tannins, across the palate into a long, flavorful finish.
• Antica 2018 Mountain Select Cabernet Sauvignon, wrapping the AVA’s telltale dark fruits and herb complexity together with a black pepper-spice intrigue and delivering these flavors on a structured palate of hearty yet smooth tannins for aging.
• Dos Lagos Vineyards 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, a force of nature melding both power and elegance; its firm structure and deep, dark fruits elegantly layered by spice, herb, wild brush, and toasty oak complexity with hints of leather and tobacco adding to the mesmerizing bouquet.
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• Burgess 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, rich-fruited and rich-bodied, yet with its dark red and black fruits lifted by bright acidity and combined with a subtle toasty oak complexity that glides across the palate into a fruit-dominated finish.
• Hill Family Estate 2018 Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon with juicy dark fruits, spice complexity, and seamlessly smooth texture, produced by Doug and Leslie Hill, who farm for themselves and others, keeping their eyes on 800 acres of fruit. No easy feat!
• Acumen 2018 Peak Cabernet Sauvignon showing deep, show-stopping aromas of dark berries that burst with mouth-watering juiciness on the palate, and fall across the palate in an ultra-smooth cascade. A bite of Porterhouse steak should not be too far behind each sip.
Last but certainly not least is the Sill Family Wines’ 2015 Atlas Peak trés Cabernet Sauvignon, which has stunningly rich expresso-toffee, herb-spice complexity, and silky smooth yet firm tannins for long ageability.
This vintage was named the CWSA 2018 USA Wine of the Year and was scooped up by a number of celebrities, which is why finding a bottle may take perseverance. Proprietor Igor Sill only brought one bottle to the 10th-anniversary tasting.
While many Atlas Peak wines are small production newer vintages, they and other wines are generally available through the wineries’ websites.
But with all these full-flavored wines, what were a few of the gourmet edibles served by six local restaurateurs? Empress M served pork buns that took the palate from fluffy dough to a core of savory, spiced pork. Silverado Resort and Spa served numerous offerings, its smoked Sturgeon rillette and savory madeleines topped with crème and caviar being particular stand-outs.
Besides Empress M and Silverado Resort, the others serving food included Ace & Vine, La Cheve, Provisions Café, and Tarla Bar & Grill. On the menu were Pomegranate-Cabernet Braised Short Ribs, served with Roasted Mushroom-White Truffle Risotto, Beef Au Jus, Fried Kale, Spicy Pickled Cherry Peppers from Tarla, and Tempura Shrimp Soft Tacos from Ace & Vine.
10th Annual Taste of Atlas Peak Quick Stats + Numbers, 10/30/21:
• $170,000 total raised in collaboration with the Napa Communities FireWise Foundation (NCFF).
• $13,600 raised for the silent auction lots including, Twilight Tasting for 6 at Opus One, a Private Italian dinner by Chef Massimiliano Boldrini for up to 10 in your home with Glenn Salva pairing and pouring Antica Wines and An American Flag that flew over the U.S. Capitol.
• Notable California dignitaries, California State Senator Bill Dodd, Napa County BoS Chair Alfredo Pedroza, Napa County Sheriff Oscar Ortiz, Napa Vice Mayor Liz Alessio, St. Helena City Council Member Eric Hall, all attended and enjoyed Atlas Peak wines.
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