Napa Valley Wine Train’s new chef talks farm-to-table cuisine, cooking on a moving vehicle | Local News Leave a comment

“To be honest, I had never even gone on the train,” he said. “I would see it right along Highway 29 every single time I drove it, and I never thought that there was actually cooking going on.”

But when his colleague and good friend from Silverado Resort took a job with the train, Cuadra soon found out that was nowhere near the case. After he was offered the executive chef job, Cuadra and his fiance were able to experience the train’s six-hour “Legacy Tour” – he swears it didn’t feel that long – and he was shocked to find out that everything he had eaten was prepared onboard.

He scoped out the whole operation, took the leap, and has since concluded that this chef’s job isn’t all that different from what he was previously doing … it is just all done while moving.

“Here, what I’m tasked to do is basically keep doing what they were already doing, and so was I – everything from scratch, bring the farm to the table, and try to procure the best possible products that we can get within season,” said Cuadra.

Having been a chef in Sacramento before his Silverado Resort job and working at Yountville’s Bouchon Bakery before that, Cuadra has a set of local farmer contacts to ensure that he always gets the exact high quality produce, meat and cheeses he wants. And when you are setting up an extravagant experience – often for out-of-town guests unfamiliar with the area – with set parameters but changing seasons and specials, Cuadra finds this guarantee is necessary.

“It’s completely different from a restaurant where everything has a price point,” he explained. “Here, you really have to kind of sell it.”

In addition to rolling with the punches seasonally – Cuadra is constantly changing up the menus based on what ingredients he can get – he and his crew also have to be reactive and flexible with every single move they make.

“I could definitely see why people would get motion sickness,” he said. “We’re cooking on a moving train, and this thing is not just moving forward, it’s moving every single way you think … I remember the first week being jolted side-to-side because I had my legs locked and I wasn’t expecting the movement.”

But now, a little over four months in, Cuadra is basically a pro.

“You have to make sure to engage your core and you have stable footing, as far as that goes,” he said. “But I mean, it’s just a kitchen on wheels.”

But an always-moving train also means an always-changing schedule, so timing when to prepare certain food items based on how smoothly the ride is going can sometimes be a challenge.

“Versus a restaurant, some people are going to take their time to enjoy a bottle of wine, but the train is still gonna go as fast and you can’t really do anything to slow it down,” said Cuadra. “So it’s very, very important to get those timeframes right on point, so everybody enjoys it and not feel rushed or like they are slowing up service.”

For the chef team, this adapt-as-you-go methodology lends itself to a more scenic way of managing time.

“It’s a moving landscape, so you have a beautiful window and revolving scenery, and based on that scenery we do our fires,” said Cuadra. “We know if we are near Mondavi, let’s start with this, or if we’re at Gergich, we will start with the next course.”

“The wine train just adds a little bit more of the element of fun and surprise, because it’s not a controlled environment: Every single ride is different.”

Regardless of what each day’s rides may bring – whether that means tardy guests, bumpy tracks or windy weather – Cuadra is prepared to figure it out and live to tell the tale.

“I’ve opened an arena, I’ve worked for a highly acclaimed chef, I’ve worked for hotels, a golf course, tournaments, and now, I’ve been a wine train,” said Cuadra. “So I think it’s a fun thing to have in my repertoire.”

Cuadra’s colleagues – including the train’s general manager, Nathan Davis – tend to agree.

“Chef Rod prides himself on precision and purpose, [and] he delights in executing at his best level and revels in supporting his team to find theirs,” said Davis. “The kitchen can be a demanding place, but Rod has tested himself under the pressure and heat that a kitchen can deliver and succeeds in even the most trying circumstances.”

“The best is yet to come under Chef Rod’s watch.”